Here are the accounts of my adventures in Buenos Aires.
Some are brief, some are not.
Please do not accidently hit the mark blog button as that is what happened last time and I lost my last account even though I hadn't broken any rules.
Please do feel free to comment, even anonymously if you wish. I love hearing from everyone!
miércoles, 25 de julio de 2007
martes, 17 de julio de 2007
Veggies, violins and vicious tangueros
Tuesday, July 17th
Ahhh. Much better. It’s 13:00 here, almost lunchtime and I just ate. I feel much better as today was the earliest day I awoke (9:00) and I was getting HUNGRY! I decided it would be worth my trek to check out this vegetarian place, Lotos. It really was worth my sore toes getting sorer. It’s a totally vegetarian restaurant (run by Taiwanese… thank you for making something healthy!) with an organic food market in the basement (THE BEST BREAD EVER… I’m headed down to get more after this.) It’s served cafeteria style. You take your tray and tell them what you want. I got seitan and vegetables, bread, apple dessert and water (with bubbles…by accident, but I like it… look at me! I’m turning into a crazy bubble drinker:)) all for about $6. Buenos Aires is great!
The reason I got up so unusually early today is because I had my first violin tango lesson with Mauricio Marcelli. He’s pretty famous but charges a lot. He gave (ha. sold) me a book of tango exercises and tango arrangements by him. It was an awesome lesson. I learned a TON about the style and it was great playing. He played the guitar or second violin part with me and I think he enjoyed it a bit too as I’m not his average student. Anyway, I didn’t speak much but I understood 90% of what he was saying. I think that’s pretty good. I was very happy to realize that sometimes I translated quickly and sometimes I didn’t even translate but knew. To get fluent in a language takes years but I’m at least starting out right. I asked him about the possibility of applying for a Fulbright and coming back. Would I have enough to work on? He said there are at least 4 major styles and two options of playing at the Escuela de Tango (he’d recommend me) or studying further out with him at a different school. We’ll see how the rest of my lessons go. At least now I have some music to practice (besides Don Juan ;)) I’ve decided to have one more follow-up lesson with him and he’s going to try and bring a guitarist. That’d be excellent!
I was supposed to have a lesson with Alejandro but just had to miss it. I was exhausted, had a terrible headache and needed a nap. The nap definitely helped.
Later that evening I met up with Ilene at a shoe shop to look for some awesome tango shoes. They are completely awesome, that’s for sure! We then joined back up later at a Milonga near Avenida Florida. It was great and I looked appropriate for it… but too appropriate. I looked good enough to be a good dancer. Which I am not. I barely know what I’m doing!! Ahhhh. It was terrible. I had to keep my eyes glued to the ground so no one would ask me. Finally, towards the end of the night after watching many experts I decided to give it a try. How am I supposed to get good if I never start? So I made eye contact and danced with this guy with a pink shirt. I was really awkward and just closed my eyes while dancing trying desperately to relax and just feel the direction I was being led. I knew too little for it to help though. After the song finished the guy said thank you and quickly left. I had to embarrassingly walk back to my table after only one tango. Usually they are played in groups of 3 or 4. You only leave in the middle of a set if the dancing is bad or it is a mutual agreement. I definitely screwed that one up. I left feeling even more shy about learning the dance. It was fun to watch but hard too because I hate not being a part of the action. I’m going to figure this out before I leave BA and that’s a pact.
Ahhh. Much better. It’s 13:00 here, almost lunchtime and I just ate. I feel much better as today was the earliest day I awoke (9:00) and I was getting HUNGRY! I decided it would be worth my trek to check out this vegetarian place, Lotos. It really was worth my sore toes getting sorer. It’s a totally vegetarian restaurant (run by Taiwanese… thank you for making something healthy!) with an organic food market in the basement (THE BEST BREAD EVER… I’m headed down to get more after this.) It’s served cafeteria style. You take your tray and tell them what you want. I got seitan and vegetables, bread, apple dessert and water (with bubbles…by accident, but I like it… look at me! I’m turning into a crazy bubble drinker:)) all for about $6. Buenos Aires is great!
The reason I got up so unusually early today is because I had my first violin tango lesson with Mauricio Marcelli. He’s pretty famous but charges a lot. He gave (ha. sold) me a book of tango exercises and tango arrangements by him. It was an awesome lesson. I learned a TON about the style and it was great playing. He played the guitar or second violin part with me and I think he enjoyed it a bit too as I’m not his average student. Anyway, I didn’t speak much but I understood 90% of what he was saying. I think that’s pretty good. I was very happy to realize that sometimes I translated quickly and sometimes I didn’t even translate but knew. To get fluent in a language takes years but I’m at least starting out right. I asked him about the possibility of applying for a Fulbright and coming back. Would I have enough to work on? He said there are at least 4 major styles and two options of playing at the Escuela de Tango (he’d recommend me) or studying further out with him at a different school. We’ll see how the rest of my lessons go. At least now I have some music to practice (besides Don Juan ;)) I’ve decided to have one more follow-up lesson with him and he’s going to try and bring a guitarist. That’d be excellent!
I was supposed to have a lesson with Alejandro but just had to miss it. I was exhausted, had a terrible headache and needed a nap. The nap definitely helped.
Later that evening I met up with Ilene at a shoe shop to look for some awesome tango shoes. They are completely awesome, that’s for sure! We then joined back up later at a Milonga near Avenida Florida. It was great and I looked appropriate for it… but too appropriate. I looked good enough to be a good dancer. Which I am not. I barely know what I’m doing!! Ahhhh. It was terrible. I had to keep my eyes glued to the ground so no one would ask me. Finally, towards the end of the night after watching many experts I decided to give it a try. How am I supposed to get good if I never start? So I made eye contact and danced with this guy with a pink shirt. I was really awkward and just closed my eyes while dancing trying desperately to relax and just feel the direction I was being led. I knew too little for it to help though. After the song finished the guy said thank you and quickly left. I had to embarrassingly walk back to my table after only one tango. Usually they are played in groups of 3 or 4. You only leave in the middle of a set if the dancing is bad or it is a mutual agreement. I definitely screwed that one up. I left feeling even more shy about learning the dance. It was fun to watch but hard too because I hate not being a part of the action. I’m going to figure this out before I leave BA and that’s a pact.
sábado, 14 de julio de 2007
This is just the beginning.
Saturday, Sunday and Monday July 14-16
I’m watching Little House on the Prairie in Spanish (La Familia Ingalls) as I type!
The craziness has died down a bit as everyone has left except for Kacey. I shall recount my adventures from where I left off…
Day Two in Argentina.
I woke up at noon on Saturday after all the musical craziness of the late night before. I met up with Yun Hao around 3 to meet Federico Sanz (cellist and luthier) at Teatro Colón.
BREAKING NEWS! I just talked with Mauricio Marcelli on the phone in Spanish. I understood and could reply enough to have success. I will be taking a lesson with him Wednesday. I really get this crazy nervous high from talking on the phone and leaving messages. I never know what I’m going to say and when I finally get through it and hang up the phone I freak out that I made it through! So fun.
Ok… Back to the trip to the luthier. Because we were meeting with Federico, we got to go in Teatro Colón which is currently under construction and no one can go in! I understood some of when Yun Hao and Federico were speaking but not completely. Finally, Federico mentioned something about Guillaume bows to Yun Hao and I was able to show him mine and in some way demonstrate that while I might be a hack with the Spanish language I’m no violin slouch. After that I felt more invited into the conversation. He’s going to glue the broken tip for free and rehair my bow. Federico was a really nice guy all around and I’ll get to meet up with him again Saturday to get my bow back.
From there Yun Hao and I walked around and looked at the Teatro from all sides, saw a park a few more buildings with the most beautiful architecture (as is all over the city), crossed and counted TWENTY lanes on Avenida 9 de Julio. (widest street ever!) I experienced Avenida Florida for the first time, the big shopping street, and saw plenty of street performers. We wasted 15-20 minutes waiting for some dude to jump a rope. Ha! He was a comic swindler. We never did see him jump that rope… There was some street tango (moderno), bad/good singers/musicians and a puppeteer.
After a few stops with me the picky anti-shopper, I bought the last coat in a store. It’s a beautiful black winter coat from Ted Bodin (an Argentinian store). It was the last one because of the cold wave (and snow- For those of you who don’t know, it snowed for the first time in 89 years!). Now I’m finally warmer and forgetting my coat worked out for the best.
For dinner we went to the Galeria (a mall) and I had this vegetable pie thing. It was good. Yun Hao said it is usually better. On the way back I found a CD by Pablo Agri (Antonio Agri’s son) and Yun Hao, Kacey and I practiced tango steps in the apartment while the CD played in the background.
After a brief, much needed nap, Yun Hao and I left for La Salsera (we know salsa much better than tango so it was the obvious choice for a second night in the big city). It was out a little further in the city. A lot of places you grab taxis to are in the middle of deserted streets (or so you think). Small entrance holes in the buildings have led to great things behind the stone (without fail so far). Dancing was great fun though the music seemed to be all at the same tempo and only three meringues and no bachata were played the whole night (salsa the rest of the time). The level of the dancers was also not as high as the states… but this IS a tango city. This night was an early 4am night because we got too tired to even stand up! :) Minus the scary bell ringer when we got home (perhaps the vampire that lives next door) no blood was shed and the overall day/long evening was fantastic!
MONDAY
Monday evening I met James, a friend of Allen, who is a friend of mine. Now James is a friend of mine. I love the music connection. “Someday I’ll find it the music connection the musicians, the concerts and me.” Haha… Ok seriously. Here is how my night went.
I arrived in Palmermo at almost 11pm. I was supposed to be there at 10:30 but I of course left after that. I took a cab but didn’t really know where I was going. The cabbie dropped me off on some deserted street (don’t worry mom and pop- it wasn’t scary, I’m just being dramatic) and I wander the four corners until I heard some jazz. Libario is a cute (in a deep, dark color sort of way) bar that happened to have an amazing jazz group that night. I managed to enter right in between tunes and the bassist yelled something at me in Spanish. I was a little overwhelmed but I think he said something like, we have another listener (there weren’t many people there) and what is your name. I mumbled an “Amber”, apprehensively glanced around the room for a “James” and rolled into a chair at the first available table. The band started to swing another tune right in my ear. I was RIGHT in front of the band. The waitress came to take my order. I wanted a single glass of wine and tried to ask her that. I swear though, it wasn’t my Spanish, it was the intense dynamic of music in my ear. I couldn’t hear her and when she pointed to a seemingly cheap bottle of wine I assumed she was telling me that it was actually un copa de vino. So I ordered it. Of course I was wrong and it was simply the cheapest bottle on the list and an entire bottle. TERRIBLE. Yuck. I drank slowly but it surely wasn’t because I was savoring it. Finally, James made it in after waking up from his 9:00 nap, we moved to a table that wasn’t on the exact same sound wave as the band and enjoyed a great night of jazz and spanglish. I was able to meet most of the band since they know James and he even sat in on a couple tunes. Fantastic, I felt so at home hearing jazz. Hooray!
I’m watching Little House on the Prairie in Spanish (La Familia Ingalls) as I type!
The craziness has died down a bit as everyone has left except for Kacey. I shall recount my adventures from where I left off…
Day Two in Argentina.
I woke up at noon on Saturday after all the musical craziness of the late night before. I met up with Yun Hao around 3 to meet Federico Sanz (cellist and luthier) at Teatro Colón.
BREAKING NEWS! I just talked with Mauricio Marcelli on the phone in Spanish. I understood and could reply enough to have success. I will be taking a lesson with him Wednesday. I really get this crazy nervous high from talking on the phone and leaving messages. I never know what I’m going to say and when I finally get through it and hang up the phone I freak out that I made it through! So fun.
Ok… Back to the trip to the luthier. Because we were meeting with Federico, we got to go in Teatro Colón which is currently under construction and no one can go in! I understood some of when Yun Hao and Federico were speaking but not completely. Finally, Federico mentioned something about Guillaume bows to Yun Hao and I was able to show him mine and in some way demonstrate that while I might be a hack with the Spanish language I’m no violin slouch. After that I felt more invited into the conversation. He’s going to glue the broken tip for free and rehair my bow. Federico was a really nice guy all around and I’ll get to meet up with him again Saturday to get my bow back.
From there Yun Hao and I walked around and looked at the Teatro from all sides, saw a park a few more buildings with the most beautiful architecture (as is all over the city), crossed and counted TWENTY lanes on Avenida 9 de Julio. (widest street ever!) I experienced Avenida Florida for the first time, the big shopping street, and saw plenty of street performers. We wasted 15-20 minutes waiting for some dude to jump a rope. Ha! He was a comic swindler. We never did see him jump that rope… There was some street tango (moderno), bad/good singers/musicians and a puppeteer.
After a few stops with me the picky anti-shopper, I bought the last coat in a store. It’s a beautiful black winter coat from Ted Bodin (an Argentinian store). It was the last one because of the cold wave (and snow- For those of you who don’t know, it snowed for the first time in 89 years!). Now I’m finally warmer and forgetting my coat worked out for the best.
For dinner we went to the Galeria (a mall) and I had this vegetable pie thing. It was good. Yun Hao said it is usually better. On the way back I found a CD by Pablo Agri (Antonio Agri’s son) and Yun Hao, Kacey and I practiced tango steps in the apartment while the CD played in the background.
After a brief, much needed nap, Yun Hao and I left for La Salsera (we know salsa much better than tango so it was the obvious choice for a second night in the big city). It was out a little further in the city. A lot of places you grab taxis to are in the middle of deserted streets (or so you think). Small entrance holes in the buildings have led to great things behind the stone (without fail so far). Dancing was great fun though the music seemed to be all at the same tempo and only three meringues and no bachata were played the whole night (salsa the rest of the time). The level of the dancers was also not as high as the states… but this IS a tango city. This night was an early 4am night because we got too tired to even stand up! :) Minus the scary bell ringer when we got home (perhaps the vampire that lives next door) no blood was shed and the overall day/long evening was fantastic!
MONDAY
Monday evening I met James, a friend of Allen, who is a friend of mine. Now James is a friend of mine. I love the music connection. “Someday I’ll find it the music connection the musicians, the concerts and me.” Haha… Ok seriously. Here is how my night went.
I arrived in Palmermo at almost 11pm. I was supposed to be there at 10:30 but I of course left after that. I took a cab but didn’t really know where I was going. The cabbie dropped me off on some deserted street (don’t worry mom and pop- it wasn’t scary, I’m just being dramatic) and I wander the four corners until I heard some jazz. Libario is a cute (in a deep, dark color sort of way) bar that happened to have an amazing jazz group that night. I managed to enter right in between tunes and the bassist yelled something at me in Spanish. I was a little overwhelmed but I think he said something like, we have another listener (there weren’t many people there) and what is your name. I mumbled an “Amber”, apprehensively glanced around the room for a “James” and rolled into a chair at the first available table. The band started to swing another tune right in my ear. I was RIGHT in front of the band. The waitress came to take my order. I wanted a single glass of wine and tried to ask her that. I swear though, it wasn’t my Spanish, it was the intense dynamic of music in my ear. I couldn’t hear her and when she pointed to a seemingly cheap bottle of wine I assumed she was telling me that it was actually un copa de vino. So I ordered it. Of course I was wrong and it was simply the cheapest bottle on the list and an entire bottle. TERRIBLE. Yuck. I drank slowly but it surely wasn’t because I was savoring it. Finally, James made it in after waking up from his 9:00 nap, we moved to a table that wasn’t on the exact same sound wave as the band and enjoyed a great night of jazz and spanglish. I was able to meet most of the band since they know James and he even sat in on a couple tunes. Fantastic, I felt so at home hearing jazz. Hooray!
viernes, 13 de julio de 2007
13 de Viernes
Friday July 13th (I just now realized that day was a Friday the 13th. Ha ha!)
Greetings from Argentina!
I´ll try to give a rough sketch of my adventures so far.
A lot of things prior to me jumping on a plane went wrong but apparently that was good luck for my actual trip! After a smooth flight from Minneapolis (and seeing my two bestest friends for much too short of a time) to Texas, I monorailed it to my next gate.
I was about to ask if I was at the correct gate when I noticed a somewhat familiar tall guy. "Wow he looks like an old friend/co-counselor from Meadowmount three years ago," I thought. After noticing a bow case behind him my double-take was confirmed and he greeted me with a hug. Chin Chin (his nickname) and I tried to catch up three years but soon realized we´d have a 12 hour plane ride to do that. What are the odds!? I´m still in shock. We fanagled seats next to each other and had an easy flight into Buenos Aires. The sunrise (as it was an overnight flight) coming into Argentina was amazing.
At the airport I grabbed a taxi as instructed and soon found myself speaking Spanish (and doing ok!) with the sweetest old man, my driver. He got me safely to my destination 1981 Avenida Corrientes and I met my new apartment mates, Kacey, Jill and Emily. (The maid is coming today so I will add pics from here then) Emily happens to work with my best friend, Alissa at University of MN. Can you believe it? The connections here are crazy.
There was no time to waste. It was only 11am but I was off into the big city with Kacey. She practiced piano and I went and discovered how to use an ATM machine here in Buenos Aires with only minor embarrassment. The lines for banks here are crazy. You´d think they were giving out their last dollars!
We then hiked through the streets to Cafe Tortoni (a famous tango cafe- almost too famous... too many tourists) and met with Daniel and Polish friend, Jacek. Kacey will work with them next year in Florida. It was a great initial conversation about tango. I learned a lot and received more contacts. By the end of my first day I was overloaded with contacts-the greatest problem to have. Que bueno!
Antonio Agri (Pablo Agri, his son) and Fernando Suarez Paz (Piazzolla´s violinists)
Rodolfo Medero
Orchestra De La Luz (some amazing Japanese salsa orchestra I need to check out)
We are going Wednesday to this group Fernandez Fierro that was highly recommended to us by Daniel. www.fernandezfierro.com Can´t wait!
After a long period (typical) at the cafe I found my way home all by myself. Here you can sit in a cafe on one coffee for the entire day. The lifestyle of sleeping in, enjoying each other´s company, eating late, staying out until the wee hours of the morning and the abundance of passionate people is FANTASTIC!
There are dogs everywhere and guys that will walk 15 at one time! Paseaperros are the guys that walk the dogs' official names.
The smells are interesting too. Unfortunately, there is mostly a nasty polluted smell that blankets the city. Sometimes in random places I get this fresh soap smell and sometimes the sweet smell of roasted nuts from a street vendor.
On the way back to the apartment I stopped at a libros y musicas store to check out the artists. There are so many great shops around the city, there will be no problem in finding way too many treasures.
At home I tried to email or even function but I definitely needed a nap and took a long one until almost 8pm. Then it was time to get ready for the big night out. (or should I say average night for an Argentine?) I went to la esquina (corner) and ordered canelones. I had no idea what they were but the guy made them without meat. They ended up being spinach rolled in something with a red sauce. It was good especially after being famished all day. I got back by 10:30pm to join the ladies in catching a taxi to Cafe Homero, our first stop. The show was supposed to begin at 11 but that of course meant that we arrived just as the singer was. The show before was a pianist, bandoneon and bassist with a male singer and two great tango dancers. It was wonderful and my first official live experience of something so Argentinian. Our group for the second show was huge. Apparently the singer taught at the conference that is now ended and so all the Americans from the group were there (a few too many for my taste being that I´m one too). We had vino and listened to music classic to the Argentinean culture (and others) sung by María José Mantana with an AMAZING guitarist. She could pull anything off and would surprise him too, but he knew it all! She was really personal with the crowd and we loved it. It was extra special when audience members would join in traditional songs with her- I´m sure ones that they grew up hearing. She even had a few students come up and share a tune. WOW! (and all on my first night)
Finally, we ended the night at a milonga (place were people dance tango). After roaming the streets and going the wrong way thanks to mass group chaos we found the Armenian Restaurant hosting this HUGE dance in the basement. Everyone and their brother was there on a Thursday night and out until 5 or 6am! We caught the last bit of the live band (too bad but it was about 3am when we got there). Our group hung out and watched some amazing dancers (to my standards but apparently there are better). Some of the folks in the group could dance really well too. I tried three times with friends but was quite awkward. Each time I DID improve a bit, but that´s not saying much. Guess that´s why I´m here, right!?
After 5:30am we decided it was time to head home. I got to sleep at 6am after having a busy, usual for an Argentine, RIDICULOUSLY great day!
Greetings from Argentina!
I´ll try to give a rough sketch of my adventures so far.
A lot of things prior to me jumping on a plane went wrong but apparently that was good luck for my actual trip! After a smooth flight from Minneapolis (and seeing my two bestest friends for much too short of a time) to Texas, I monorailed it to my next gate.
I was about to ask if I was at the correct gate when I noticed a somewhat familiar tall guy. "Wow he looks like an old friend/co-counselor from Meadowmount three years ago," I thought. After noticing a bow case behind him my double-take was confirmed and he greeted me with a hug. Chin Chin (his nickname) and I tried to catch up three years but soon realized we´d have a 12 hour plane ride to do that. What are the odds!? I´m still in shock. We fanagled seats next to each other and had an easy flight into Buenos Aires. The sunrise (as it was an overnight flight) coming into Argentina was amazing.
At the airport I grabbed a taxi as instructed and soon found myself speaking Spanish (and doing ok!) with the sweetest old man, my driver. He got me safely to my destination 1981 Avenida Corrientes and I met my new apartment mates, Kacey, Jill and Emily. (The maid is coming today so I will add pics from here then) Emily happens to work with my best friend, Alissa at University of MN. Can you believe it? The connections here are crazy.
There was no time to waste. It was only 11am but I was off into the big city with Kacey. She practiced piano and I went and discovered how to use an ATM machine here in Buenos Aires with only minor embarrassment. The lines for banks here are crazy. You´d think they were giving out their last dollars!
We then hiked through the streets to Cafe Tortoni (a famous tango cafe- almost too famous... too many tourists) and met with Daniel and Polish friend, Jacek. Kacey will work with them next year in Florida. It was a great initial conversation about tango. I learned a lot and received more contacts. By the end of my first day I was overloaded with contacts-the greatest problem to have. Que bueno!
Antonio Agri (Pablo Agri, his son) and Fernando Suarez Paz (Piazzolla´s violinists)
Rodolfo Medero
Orchestra De La Luz (some amazing Japanese salsa orchestra I need to check out)
We are going Wednesday to this group Fernandez Fierro that was highly recommended to us by Daniel. www.fernandezfierro.com Can´t wait!
After a long period (typical) at the cafe I found my way home all by myself. Here you can sit in a cafe on one coffee for the entire day. The lifestyle of sleeping in, enjoying each other´s company, eating late, staying out until the wee hours of the morning and the abundance of passionate people is FANTASTIC!
There are dogs everywhere and guys that will walk 15 at one time! Paseaperros are the guys that walk the dogs' official names.
The smells are interesting too. Unfortunately, there is mostly a nasty polluted smell that blankets the city. Sometimes in random places I get this fresh soap smell and sometimes the sweet smell of roasted nuts from a street vendor.
On the way back to the apartment I stopped at a libros y musicas store to check out the artists. There are so many great shops around the city, there will be no problem in finding way too many treasures.
At home I tried to email or even function but I definitely needed a nap and took a long one until almost 8pm. Then it was time to get ready for the big night out. (or should I say average night for an Argentine?) I went to la esquina (corner) and ordered canelones. I had no idea what they were but the guy made them without meat. They ended up being spinach rolled in something with a red sauce. It was good especially after being famished all day. I got back by 10:30pm to join the ladies in catching a taxi to Cafe Homero, our first stop. The show was supposed to begin at 11 but that of course meant that we arrived just as the singer was. The show before was a pianist, bandoneon and bassist with a male singer and two great tango dancers. It was wonderful and my first official live experience of something so Argentinian. Our group for the second show was huge. Apparently the singer taught at the conference that is now ended and so all the Americans from the group were there (a few too many for my taste being that I´m one too). We had vino and listened to music classic to the Argentinean culture (and others) sung by María José Mantana with an AMAZING guitarist. She could pull anything off and would surprise him too, but he knew it all! She was really personal with the crowd and we loved it. It was extra special when audience members would join in traditional songs with her- I´m sure ones that they grew up hearing. She even had a few students come up and share a tune. WOW! (and all on my first night)
Finally, we ended the night at a milonga (place were people dance tango). After roaming the streets and going the wrong way thanks to mass group chaos we found the Armenian Restaurant hosting this HUGE dance in the basement. Everyone and their brother was there on a Thursday night and out until 5 or 6am! We caught the last bit of the live band (too bad but it was about 3am when we got there). Our group hung out and watched some amazing dancers (to my standards but apparently there are better). Some of the folks in the group could dance really well too. I tried three times with friends but was quite awkward. Each time I DID improve a bit, but that´s not saying much. Guess that´s why I´m here, right!?
After 5:30am we decided it was time to head home. I got to sleep at 6am after having a busy, usual for an Argentine, RIDICULOUSLY great day!
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